TECHNIQUE
In part 2 I covered two essential techniques which can be used to make your life considerably easier when climbing on overhanging rock. Whilst 'Egyptians' and 'flagging' are core movements for the experienced steep rock climber, there are other more subtle techniques which can be equally effective when the situation dictates. The three techniques described this issue: 'side heel-hooking', 'frogging' and 'twistlocking' are rarely essential in order to make a move possible but they can make all the difference in conserving energy throughout the course of a whole route or boulder problem.
1) SIDE HEEL-HOOKING
Everyone knows how to heel-hook; and if you don't then there's no points for guessing that you simply throw your leg up and stick your heel on. The basic heel-hook comes in very handy for turning the lips of roofs or for making traverses when the rock cuts away very steeply beneath you. However, the side heel hook can be used far more frequently if the user is sufficiently creative and flexible Imagine a situation where you have a large flat hold just to one side of your waist. You can't get your toe on it because it's too high and too close-in to your body. The answer is simply to lift your leg and rotate your foot outwards in such a manner that enables you to get the side of your heel onto the hold. Use it, and then when you're halfway through the move and have gained sufficient height, re-adjust to using your toe. It sounds simple but few climbers spot the situations to use these moves and some who do are not sufficiently flexible to carry them out. Many climbers are put off using side heel-hooks as they can feel weird and insecure the first few times you try them; but like all techniques you will adapt to feeling comfortable with them the more you practice. However if you still find side heel-hooks difficult to perform after practice then it may be due to a lack of groin flexibility and a few months of stretching should sort things out. It is also worth noting that side heel hooks can be even more effective if combined with a 'toe cam'. This will not only enable you to make use of an awkwardly high foothold but it will actually create torque to assist in holding you on and pulling you in. However, beware falling off in the middle of a heel-toe cam move and not taking your foot out in time!
2) 'FROGGING'
Whilst climbing in France is certainly good for your technique, 'Frogging' is a technique which can be used anywhere to help you bring your centre of gravity in close on vertical or overhanging rock. It is especially relevant where you have either one central foothold or two very close footholds between your legs and at roughly knee height. The idea is to push your hips in as close to the rock as possible by turning your legs out in a sort of ballet dancers' 'pliet' movement. Quite simply, the more flexible your inner groin, the better you will be at this and the better you are, the more weight you can take of your arms. It can provide that crucial means of resting when all else is letting you down and it is certainly worth mastering if you have never used it before.
3)' TWISTLOCKING'
This technique refers to a way of positioning your upperbody when making long locky moves between good holds on steep rock. They are only possible when the hold you are reaching for is either directly above you or preferably over to the opposite side. The idea is to actually 'roll' your upperbody over onto the arm which is locking, thus using it as a sort of 'stop' to reduce the amount of muscular force which is required to hold the lock. It sounds confusing but the accompanying photo should clarify all. Twistlocks can provide a vital means of saving energy on a long locky route or they can be used as a last resort tactic to help you squeeze out that final move at a point when your arms are about to resign from the task of pulling.
SUMMARY
The techniques described in these last two articles refer only to common themes or patterns in climbing movement and the scope for variations and different combinations is limitless. Remember when you're practising that the idea is to design problems which demand the prescribed techniques by necessity as opposed to just climbing around and using them gratuitously. Problem setting for this purpose can be an art form in itself and it is well worth bouldering with others to see if they approach your problems in the way which you had choreographed. As said last issue, always learn new climbing techniques in a safe and controlled environment and then gradually subject them to progressively higher levels of stress and fatigue as you become more confident with them. That way you can be sure that you won't go to pieces at the time when you most need to use your newly acquired skills.