TECHNIQUE
part 2 -  STEEP ROCK TECHNIQUES

Following on from last month's pages, the intention of the next two web articles is to introduce some essential techniques which will literally transform your ability to climb steeper rock over night if you aren't familiar with them as yet. It is likely that both will feel unnatural and contrived when you first try them since you will have to actively create moves or problems which will demand their use. However, once mastered you will notice an endless number of situations where you can use these techniques to awesome effect where you would previously have floundered and made things considerably more difficult for yourself. If you don't believe me -try!

1. The 'Egyptian'

 So named because of the bizarre dropped knee posture that is adopted during these moves, the Egyptian (or 'lolotte' as the French call them) is perhaps the most useful and highly cunning method of keeping your centre-of-gravity as close to the rock as possible when climbing on steep ground. It applies predominantly to situations where you have two highish footholds either side of you on rock which is in excess of 5 degrees overhanging. The basic idea is to 'twist into' the move you are about to make by dropping the knee on the same side as the hand that you are about to reach with (the passive side) and turning your body to face the hold that you are currently holding on with (the active side). Thus you will be standing on the outside edge of your foot on the dropped knee side and the inside edge of your foot on the raised knee side. Not only will this bring your hips in close and perpendicular to the rock it will also create 'torque' between the footholds which will massively reduce the loading on your arms. It sounds complicated on paper but it's the simplest and most obvious thing to do once you've had a few tries. The secret is to coordinate your Egyptians fluidly between moves and, where the ground dictates, to switch continuously from one Egyptian to the other, moving upwards almost like a telemark skier. Beware if you are trying for the first time, that if you drop the knee on the wrong side you will make things twice as hard for yourself instead of twice as easy! Even in the early stages you should be able to spot this and re-adjust before you commit to the move and fall off.

2. Flagging

This is a subtle technique which can be used as a quick and efficient substitute for swapping feet and climbing on your outside edge. It applies mainly to situations on steep rock where you only have one central foothold and thus require that fine degree of counterbalance to make the next move. The annoying thing in these situations is that having swapped feet and completed the move, you invariably have to swap them back to the way they were previously in order to continue. However, by flagging, ie: passing your free leg either inside you or behind you and hanging your body straight down, you can counterbalance yourself to reach up. Then, having completed the move, simply rectify yourself so you are set up for the next move. It seems so logical and yet it is entirely unobvious unless you've practiced it.

Remember that it's no good trying these techniques for the first time when you're pumped, gripped and committed on the sharp end. The only way to learn a new aspect of technique is in a safe and controlled environment, such as the wall or a bouldering crag, and then refining it by slowly and progressively introducing more stress in a cragging environment. Keep an open mind, watch what others do but always consider whether an alternative solution would be more suited to your own climbing style. Next web update I will look at some more equally ingenious techniques which can be used to bring steep rock down to your level.