Figure-of-Eight
The Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all climbing knots. It is easy to
tie, easy to undo after a load has been applied, and puts the least stress on the rope
when tied tight. It can be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end, it should
be secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot from un-doing itself. There are
generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight knot. The first method is used when a
piece of equipment is clipped into the loop, the second when the knot is used to tie into
something, for example, a climbing harness.
Figure-of-Eight loop
Figure-of-Eight re-threaded
The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a harness, and is just a case of
making a figure-of-eight on the single rope, looping through the harness, and following
the knot back through itself.
Bowline
The bowline is easy to adjust and untie. Beware, though, that if tied incorrectly in can
be unsafe. You should really tie a stopper knot in the loop with the loose end to prevent
it from pulling through.
Clove Hitch
The clove hitch is easily adjusted when place, but is not a particularly strong knot. If
one side of the knot is to be loaded, place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to
be loaded, place the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading, as it may run if loaded
when loose.
Highwayman's Hitch
This knot can bear one's weight on one strand of the rope and can be untied by just
pulling on the other strand. End 'B' is the load-bearing end. NOT RECOMMENDED for
climbing, but excellent for robbing stagecoaches, when you want to get away quick with
your rope.
Fisherman's Knot
Probably the simplest knot for joining two ends of rope. Consists of two overhand
knots.
Double Fisherman's Knot
Better than the Fisherman's Knot, this uses two double overhand knots. Good knot, as it
can be difficult to untie. Check regularly for the loose ends getting shorter, and if so,
re-tie. Tighten with body weight.
Lark's Foot
Quick knot, but weak. Best avoided.
Overhand Knot
Probably the simplest knot in existence. Usually used as a stopper knot, but a double
overhand is preferable.
Double Overhand Knot
Better as a stopper knot than the Overhand, as it is less likely to pull through.
Overhand Loop
This is the simplest way to create a closed loop in the
middle of a rope. Difficult to untie after loading.
Sheet Bend
Occasionaly used to join the ends of ropes, may be
adjusted easily, but can also come undone easily.
Tape Knot
Usually used for joing the ends of tapes or slings. Can
work loose sometimes, so check regularly, and re-tie if the ends are getting shorter.
Tighten with body weight before use.
Ascending Knots Five ascending knots are shown in all,
each have their advantages and disadvantages. Try them all out, and see which you
prefer.
Prusik Loop
The Kleimheist
The Hedden Knot, also known as Kreutzklem First
published in 1960 in Summit Magazine. In 1964, the name Kreutzklem was attached to it by
someone in the German mountain troops who was shown it by an officer serving in the US Air
Force. The Kreutzklem name (cross-clamp) was applied because the original inventor (Chet
Hedden) got lost somewhere along the way when it was shown to different people in
Europe.
The French Prusik
The Bachmann
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